For a visitor without insider knowledge, it was almost impossible to choose where to eat lunch at Mercato Testaccio. Beyond the produce and fresh meats are stands that sell pies, pastries, pizza, pasta, and sandwiches in the Roman tradition. Although I have an remarkable sweet-tooth, I was looking for something savory and satisfying on my first trip there. After wandering through stalls of golden bread and fragrant cheese, I built up an appetite for a sandwich. I decided to resist the pastries and candies for something that caught my eye immediately: Mordi e Vai: Box 15.
Located right on the edge of the market near stands selling take-away pasta and paninis, Mordi e Vai's unique menu selection and layout drew me to the stand. It's popularity was evident: not only was there an endless churn of clients, there was a full camera crew from National Geographic profiling the chef as a part of a series on authentic Roman street food. At first, I felt camera-shy and wondered if I should just grab a classic slice of mushroom pizza from the stand next door. However, a bright awning described each sandwich option with helpful pictures to guide the less familiar patrons. Underneath that awning was a broad array of lovely sauces that beckoned to me.
Each of the 12 creations were rooted in traditional Roman-style meats and sauces, but made new again through creative preparation. This stand tuses traditional pasta sauces and combines them with generous portions of tender meat garnished with cheese and vegetables on thick white bread. The bread itself is a masterpiece: it is a celebration of simplicity in form and execution. It has a golden crust that holds its integrity and adds a crunch to each bite without overwhelming the filling. The soft inner layer easily soaks up much of the sauce but leaves plenty of moisture to cover the meat. The star, however, is clearly what filling you choose. The bread is a perfectly humble vessel for the trays full of juicy, seasoned meat ready to mate with authentic pasta sauces.
The fillings deliver full flavor enhancing the juicy meat prepared throughout the day. The process is simple and encapsulates the Roman street food tradition: the bread is sliced and your desired combination of pork, veal, or tripe stewed in sauce is scooped and topped with Pecorino Romano or vegetables, depending on the sandwich chosen. It's handed to you in a paper wrap and you can eat standing next to the cart while enjoying free potato chips placed on the counter. The owner/chef is open to conversation and eager to suggest a creation best suited for your appetite. The entire experience is quick, simple, and cheap. Mordi e Vai demonstrates a mastery for traditional Roman cuisine in a convenient, user-friendly environment. This spot offers the perfect sandwich if, for example, you crave a hearty plate of Carbonara without the time or financial commitment of a sit-down establishment.
--Grace Myers
--Grace Myers
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