Testaccio Market

      The covered market which has replaced the former open air food market in Testaccio plaza is among the best in the city. While both Whole Foods and the Testaccio market sell organic meats and vegetables, only in the Roman market are you likely to meet the farmer who grew the tomatoes and picked them in the morning, or a third generation butcher whose family has operated a stand in the market since 1918. How fresh is the fish? Some of it is still thumping on the ice. Running a stand in the Testaccio market is a profession that often includes the whole family in a country where access to fresh, locally accessed meat and vegetables are a cultural requirement. You can choose between cuts of meats ranging in quality and preparation, depending on your budget and time constraints in the kitchen. This is the place to find Roman classics like Tripe or seasoned balls of Octopus ready to be heated and served. The sellers often know their farm sources personally and can recommend selections based on what dishes you're interested in. If you're feeling adventurous you might ask for the chef's favorite seasoning creation!

      Get to know the Testaccio market in the southern part of central Rome, an area undistinguished by noteworthy architecture. The neighborhood is full of old Testacinni, retired workers at the neighborhood’s former slaughterhouse, some missing joints off their fingers; and bars with a vibe skewed not just to old people but to old people’s parents. Even your Dad wouldn’t drink there. The market itself, however, is full of sunshine and friendly vendors among bright glass ceilings and entrances that spill out into busy streets. The building itself is unassuming from the front, an indication that this not-so-hidden gem does not need advertising to draw a large crowd. 

     Americans are unfamiliar with food vendors with a deep level of knowledge of their product and food that was until recently still on the vine. Most large US grocery chains buy produce for looks and shelf life rather than taste. But at the Testaccio market, you will discover flavors that have disappeared into memory: Fresh smothered beef sandwiches, pastries baked that morning, and seasonal vegetables ripe for the evening pasta. You can enjoy your snacks while browsing for other goods, or you can take a seat at the center of the market at casual plastic tables among families and tourists alike. In the early afternoon, you might notice that more people seem to come for lunch rather than grocery shopping.

      Unlike a large grocery in the States, you can also shop for second hand books, a cool leather jacket sold by an older woman with hair a unique shade of purply red, hand made candies, and fabulous plants and flowers (from cacti to fresh herbs to a wide selection of lilies). After you are satisfied with your groceries, you might be tempted to wander into the boutique clothing and book shops nestled between unique candy stands and tiny wine bars. There is some method to the madness-- accessories and home goods are on one end and small sandwich shops are on the other. Produce and other edible goods sold in bulk fill the center. It may seem difficult to navigate at first, but the layout is generally intuitive and the spaces between stalls are large enough to prevent crowding and confusion.

     Grocery stores in the U.S. are designed for quick selections based on visual appeal, where shopping is seen as one more chore in a busy day. Take your time in this market to appreciate each vendor's unique personality. The market at Testaccio is for indulging in life’s gifts--food, beauty, sensory experiences and friendship. Enjoy the gift.

    --Grace Myers